Without getting into discussing politics, general law and order, or all the other things that greater mortals worry about, what prompted me to start this post was the recent event on the Greater Noida Expressway near Mahamaya flyover when two elephants were hit by a truck and one of them - a 45 year old female was killed and left lying on the expressway for over 4 hours... For readers who have missed the incident, here is the link...
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/noida/Truck-kills-elephant-in-Noida/articleshow/14512979.cms
(courtsey - NYTIndia)
I realized this last week while driving to work to Sec-125 from Sec-93 where I live - and faced the huge traffic snarls that had developed on the way.
However, this story is not about the sorry fate of the elephants, or the mahout - or about the reckless driving of the vehicles, it is more fundamental. It is to list out some of what I have seen and heard during my 2 yr 8 months stay here so far and to question the basic sense of what goes on in UP today -
1. Most people (including those who drive BMWs, Mercs, etc.) think nothing of just using either side of the road to travel - in some parts of the World left is right, and in others the right is right - here in 'Ulta' Pradesh - BOTH LEFT AND RIGHT ARE RIGHT!
2. Elephants, bullock carts, horse drawn carriages feel that Expressway and Highways are perfectly OK places to go on - even when there is a perfectly good side road lying right next to it. Once in a while, there are horrendous accidents... but the philosophy here is LIVE AND NOT LEARN!
3. This is probably the only place in the world where whole ATM machines are uprooted and stolen - why bother removing the money within, when you can carry the whole thing home and dispense cash when required... Also, your children might like the new toy.
4. If you behave well with anyone working for you in a personal capacity - drivers, maids, etc. this is a sign of weakness - it is better not to behave well with anyone. You would get better services if you scream and rant at them rather than offer any other incentives including money
5. Women should not walk on the roads after dusk - if they do, it is perfectly ok to heckle, harass or molest them - after all girls of good families should either travel in their own vehicles preferably with enough male escorts.... if they do not, that means that they are available
6. After dark, particularly on roads less traveled, if you find people in distress and trying to get help - it is best to bypass them and speed away.. You never know what they are up to...
7. It is safest to remain indoors during the festivities - Holi is a good example - the day and the evening mostly look like Hartal days - not only because this is a family festival - but also because folks are afraid to venture out
8. Just beyond the cities, the 'Caste System' still rule the roost. Gujjars, Jats, Valmikis, Muslims all stay and live within their own communities. Any cross polination is strictly frowned upon. If you run away with someone of a different community - or even the same community and the same Gotra (I could go on explaining what this means for the next 20 pages), it is perfectly OK for the elders to band together and order you killed - after that, there are enough young folks eager to carry out the order... after all this is 'Bharat' and we have to protect our own culture...
Even in the cities, for many folks, the caste of who makes your food in the kitchen is important - so, it is not uncommon for maids coming in from different parts of the country to change their names, and even their attire to conform to the job requirement...
This behavior is not restricted to the illiterate or the noveau rich - but deeply ingrained in the psyche. I have seen two parents of students of an illustrous (read expensive private school) quarelling - when one of the mother states haughtily that she should have asked her children not to associate with children of the other community... I was surprised, but the onlookers did not feel this untoward...
9. Never... I mean absolutely Never take people at face value... 99% of the time, they do not mean what they say. If someone tells you they will come and service your refrigerator on Sunday morning - rest assured that they will never turn up... this is irrespective of what you are charged for the service. Pick up the phone and yell - use some choice local 'galis'... and you will see the service improve
10. There is a lot of wildlife here.. hidden in the crooks and corners of this state - and some of the same have prospered as most of the people do not eat meat here. However, do not mistake this as concern for the environment - the people are absolutely apathetic to the animals and forests - the leaders think nothing before replacing vast tracts of greenery with concrete monuments celebrating the uplift of the 'downtrodden'... or burning tracts of forests which have survived for centruries... or for clearing farmlands to create one more of the nameless socities similar to the one that I live in here...
In case you are wondering how people come here from outside and manage to live here - I have long pondered through this conundrum and come to the simple conclusion that at end of the day, people find a way of surviving... even possibly thriving.. independent of the situation. We find ways to make things work for us. If we stay in a place where it is perfectly acceptable to drive on both sides of the road.... we complain for a bit... then start adjusting.... would not be very surprised if, in a short while, we start doing exactly the same thing that we found so disgusting earlier....
Not saying much of human nature.... but I guess that this sunday I am at my pessimistic best...
Wishing all my friends in India a bountiful monsoon!